Rigor and nonchalance

New York, from the beginning of Fashion Week, some editors had the hours for the match Dior by Raf Simons / Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. It seems that with the beautiful collection by Lanvin Alber Elbaz, the competition has already started on Thursday night, as his impeccable work on the suit, the tuxedo, the colorama dealt mainly duchess satin is reminiscent of YSL's legacy. There is secret that the first love of Elbaz are this side. This proves two things: Saint Laurent is part of the collective memory and Elbaz remains faithful to his masters as much as himself. For even if the creator approaching quotes Saint Laurent, one is obviously the territory Lanvin. How? By the way he nonchalantly induce a natural knack to its allure, even precious. His draped, her dresses in a round are there, but it adds details "specialists of Asia." The straightness of the shoulder jackets, net fell pants give the season Elbaz his strength, his calm, his determination. Faced with deep hues of satin tunic dresses, there is no question other than white, black, jewelry such metal plates and white and silver crystals. A new tension has gripped the Lanvin woman, no less engaging, but more confident. In the end, the audience is ecstatic.

This is the same idea of ​​Amazons luxury often emanates parades Rick Owens. This time, the scenery steals the show in the parade. Foam flows along a huge wall and accumulates on the ground as a foam that is gaining ground on the mainland. Strange, organic and beautiful. Clothes Owens worked in transparency are less convincing. As if suddenly Rick Owens, mastering perfectly normal effects, had lost the thread of his discourse. The drama of the show seems to dilute the vague silhouette. Next season is eagerly awaited.